I'd like to comment on Motor Hotels
and the notable absence of WV's 'Billy Motel in a recent NYT article
I did not expect to be reading about the resurgence of motels in the New York Times, but, of course, when presented with such an article, click on it I did. I mean, of course I’m going to read something that promises a look at the new motel culture. From their 1960s peak, motels had fallen into seedy, pay-by-the-hour establishments that practically screamed bedbugs, junkies, and other unpleasantness. But if you look at old pictures at these basic-yet-cool lodgings, or take the time to read a history of the motor hotel, the feeling is more functional meets fun—sometimes slipping into outright kitch. As the Smithsonian puts it, “But after its heyday in the mid-20th century, the traditional mom and pop motel – once ubiquitous along American highways and byways – has largely slipped from the public imagination.”
Motel, a portmanteau of “motor” and “hotel,” has staged a modest comback. As the Times described it, “it’s the unique and charming aesthetic of roadside motels that are helping them become relevant again.”
As much as I was drawn to the article, I wished in vain that one of my personal favorite revitalized motels was included. But, alas, the ‘Billy Motel in Davis, West Virginia, did not make the cut.
What a pity, because the ‘Billy marries the motel tradition of the mid-century with a decidedly West Virginia spin. How do I mean? Cosnider retro-cool rooms that sport a copy of celebrated West Virginia writer Breece D’J Pancake’s collected short stories in lieu of the ubiquitous Bible placed by the Gideons.
The West Virginia tourism website describes the ‘Billy as “The Billy Motel & Bar is a hip, pocket-size, ten-room motel with a bar and cocktail lounge tucked atop the Allegheny Highlands between two up-and-coming mountain towns. Conveniently situated close to area attractions including Blackwater Falls, cafes, galleries, hiking and biking trails, and with a fully stocked bar and coffee service in the mornings. Let The Billy be your home away from home when you visit beautiful Canaan Valley.” I think it sums it up well.
The lobby of the ‘Billy has been refurbished to also serve as a mid-century cocktail bar with a delicious, if select, menu of small plates and dinners, perfect for sampling with your favorite craft cocktails, which rotate seasonally. Local West Virginia brews can also be imbibed in the retro cool of the ‘Billy’s Ish Kitchen. Often, new cocktails are advertised on the motel’s Instagram (@thebillymotel). Every time I’ve stayed at the ‘Billy, Ish is busy serving the motel’s occupants and locals alike. It’s a cool gathering spot. During the day, I’ve sat in the lounge working on writing projects, and in the morning, the proprietors serve guests complimentary French press coffee or tea. Motel guests are treated to a free cocktail—just bring the poker chip given to you at check-in to cash in.
Near Blackwater Falls State Park, the ‘Billy is also situated walking distance to downtown Davis and a very short drive to Thomas. In Thomas, you might check out the famed Purple Fiddle (the place of one of my favorite shows by WV-based Hello June), which has good eats and live music. Picinic Tacos is a great lunch spot, and the shops that line the main drag in Thomas will delight with their quirky Appalachian-artsy appeal. Everything from bespoke clothing to Mothman prints can be found along a strip of stores flanked by the Blackwater River. Stop in Tip Top for a coffee beverage of choice—it’s one of my favorite coffee shops in the whole state.
In Davis, try breakfast at Milo’s Cafe, which also has an assortment of mimosas to accompany a hearty breakfast skillet. More shops as well as the tap room for Stumptown Ales make Davis a charming diversion as well. You can easily explore other parts of West Virginia from the ‘Billy, too, including Caanan Valley, Elkins, and other day-trip destinations.
I often travel to the ‘Billy with other writers, as it, as well as the twin towns of Thomas and Davis and Blackwater Falls make it an optimal place for creativity to flourish.
But also, I just love brining people to West Virginia, to help show people from other places the wonderful hidden gems in my state. And while I’m disappointed that the Times didn’t single out the ‘Billy, it gave me the opportunity to write about my love of this home-state, new-look-while-throw-back motel. Perhaps, someday I’ll have the resources to launch a literary event there. Who knows? In the meantime, if you want a getaway, maybe come see us in the mountains, and stay a spell in funky, cool splendor.
Odds and Ends
If you’re interested in other cool, updated motels, check out Architectural Digest for some other retro-inspired overnight accomodations.
In other retro-inspired deep dives, I recently came across an old article about a guy who loved working at Kmart so much that he created an archive of the Kmart Musak, reel to reel. That’s some seriously committed nostalgia.
Reading two West Virginia poets, both with work from Belle Point Press: Bethany Jarmul’s Take Me Home and William Woolfit’s The Night the Rain Had Nowhere to Go.